Friday, September 16, 2005

My Newfoundland Vacation



Right! I live in Halifax, Nova Scotia, but was born in the rocky Province of Newfoundland and Labrador (the island part) - which is truly a wonderous and beautiful, albeit hard place. It's history is liberally laced with sea tragedies, awe inspiring landscapes and quirky, friendly people. You have to experience it to understand it, but I'll whet your appetite, I am sure.

I could have flown for a measly couple of hundred dollars, but that's no fun ! ROADTRIP! WOOHOO! ME AND THE IPOD! I filled my tank with ridiculously expensive gasoline and meandered the highway from Halifax to North Sydney, where I grabbed the Marine Atlantic Ferry to Argentia. The other choice was Port Aux Basques, the other end of the Island, but as I was itching to visit the most beautiful spot in the world, I took the longer option - which I had never done before.. 14 hours at sea is a daunting prospect for people who suffer from seasickness. Yes, I blush, it's true, I prefer a fishbowl to an ocean. The excellent news is that I used this new fangled (well, new to me) seasickness patch, which for the first time enabled me to truly enjoy the ferry! I watched dolphin friskily partner the ship and gazed dreamily into the deep blue waters of the Atlantic, which set a relaxing tone for the entire vacation. Upon arrival I rested, ate, visited, etc.... all the while allowing my anticipation of the main event to build. My favourite place in the world (and about the only places I haven't been are Egypt and Australia) is Cape Spear, the most easterly point in Canada. The tourism site photos do not do it justice, so above are a couple of my own, taken this trip. I neglected to take a photo of what I like to call the "grotto", the interior of an old military battery - which is dank, dark and misty, and a most excellent place to wander into and sing. I usually get one of two reactions from my fellow adventurers. One, she's bonkers but harmless, and two, WOW, that chick can sing, man! Either way it matters not, I am only doing it for myself. I want to tell the lot to bugger off and leave this piece of geographical loveliness to me alone. Alas, this is frowned upon. The great thing about revisiting Newfoundland for me, is the memories of ice pan hopping in Deadman's Bay, (yes, jumping between bits of broken iceberg) having a scoff of freshly caught crab in someone's kitchen while the moderately drunk musicians play jigs and reels, (KITCHEN PARTY, WOOHOO!) and embracing the wild beauty and simple atmosphere.

Gotta love it, bye!

This trip I sang to the humpback whales, whose presence I have always seen whenever in Cape Spear - one of the two songs I gifted them in return for the opportunity to commune with them was -

The Last Of The Great Whales

penned by Andy Barnes


My soul has been torn from me
And I am bleeding
My heart it has been rent
And I am crying
All the beauty around me fades
And I am screaming
I am the last of the great whales
And I am dying

Last night I heard the cry
Of my last companion
The roar of the harpoon gun
And then I was alone
I thought of the days gone by
When we were thousands
But I know that I soon must die
The last leviathan

This morning the sun did rise
Crimson in the north sky
The ice was the colour of blood
And the winds they did sigh
I rose for to take a breath
It was my last one
From a gun came the roar of death
And now I am done

Oh now that we are all gone
There's no more hunting
The big fellow is no more
It's no use lamenting
What race will be next in line?
All for the slaughter
The elephant or the seal
Or your sons and daughters

My soul has been torn from me
And I am bleeding
My heart it has been rent
And I am crying
All the beauty around me fades
And I am screaming
I am the last of the great whales
And I am dying


Whale preservation

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